When I use my Mio C220 GPS on my bike the battery doesn’t last long. This sucks. Especially for those long trips. Also, It would be cool if I could charge my cell phone and mp3 player on the go.
Add a powered USB port, hooked to the battery, for everlasting power.
The dirty details:
First of all, you’ll need an 7805 voltage regulator A.K.A. LM7805, a diode, a fuse, some cable, and a female Type-A USB port.
While you *could* wire up everything on your own, there’s no point doing so.
For about 1 Euro you can get a USB car charger, from ebay. (Postage included)
It would cost you more to get the individual parts, plus you would have to find some sort of case to protect them. For 1 euro you get everything you need. Sweet deal.
Carefully dismantle the car charger.
If it includes a fuse, you’re lucky. Mine didn’t. It’s fifty-fifty. Some have a fuse, some haven’t.
Although you could get away without using a fuse, I highly recommend it. We don’t want to burn down our beloved bikes, do we?
Get rid of the spring either by cutting it, or de-soldering it. This is the positive output of the circuit.
Also throw away the metal contacts. We don’t need those either. Just try to keep the little black cable intact.
It’s easier to solder on the cable instead on the PCB itself. Black equals ground, or negative.
This is where I connected my 2 amps fuse. I’m not sure whether you’re supposed to wire it on the positive or the negative lead, but I don’t think it matters much.
If you have a multimeter it’s a good idea to test the connections to make sure you’ve soldered everything correctly.
Now connect positive to positive, and ground to ground on your battery screws, and wait for the fireworks. (Just kidding). Just take extra care not to connect them the other way around, or the voltage regulator will get red-hot and start melting everything.
Now wire a mini-USB cable that runs from the battery, through the bike’s frame, to the handlebar.
This way you can charge your GPS and use at the same time.
And if I ever need to charge something under the saddle, I can always unplug the handlebar cable and plug any USB charger under the saddle.
The only problem with this configuration is energy waste. All the excess voltage is converted into heat. This isn’t just wasteful, it’s also a small flaw: When the engine is running, the voltage on the battery gets up to 14V, so the regulator has to drop it to 5V which is quite a drop. The specs for 7805 specify that it can take as input as much as 35V with a heatsink. In this case I’m not using one, plus everything is encased, and under the seat. Depending on your motorcycle, things might get very hot.
My Aprilia has the engine air-intake under the seat so I’m hoping to get some air-stream on it that will help cool it down.
My next upgrade will be to perforate the plastic so that it “breaths” better.
First, you’ll need a cheap generic motorcycle holder.
China is again the way to go. So fire-up ebay, and search for a motorcycle holder. Any device will do, as we only use the handle-bar ring, and the plastic platform.
I found a motorcycle holder for the Samsung i900 Omnia for just £2.75 including P&P.
Next step is to clip all the protruding plastic bits that hold the Samsung in place, until you’re left with a flat plastic platform.
I’m sorry, I don’t have any before pics.
Now glue some neodymium magnets (AKA rare-earth magnets) on the platform, and the equivalent amount of magnets on the GPS it self.
I glued them with hot-glue and up to now it holds great. You can use other glues as well, but my guess is that they will start dissolving under the blazing summer-sun. Epoxy would work even better if you have it.
Just make sure to reverse the polarity so that they actually pull each other instead of pushing.
We don’t want that, unless you’re trying to build a self-floating GPS.
It won’t work.
The mod works fine even with just 4 magnets. I’ve used 8 just to be sure. The magnetic attraction is so strong that it’s very hard to pull them apart even by pulling with both hands. There’s no way to accidental lose it.
I bought a second hand Mio c220 GPS to tinker with it.
While trying to hack it, I also flirt with the idea of replacing its internal battery.
Since I bought it for 20 euros, I don’t care much if I break it, so I took the plunge:
I disassembled it to see what’s inside. Here goes.
Before you start unscrewing stuff, take a mental note of the power button. Once you remove the rear cover, the button will go flying and you will have to figure-out which way is the right way to put it back in.
Also, performing an open-heart operation on your loved GPS is not a risk-free matter. I cannot be held responsible for any damaged units. Proceed at your own risk.
Right. Were was I? Go on and unscrew the 4 screws on the back. Then you have to pry it open. Use a flat screwdriver and be careful not to mark the plastic casing.
Once you separate the casing into 2 pieces, carefully disconnect the black and white cables that connect the speaker to the PCB. This will give us some more “breathing” space for our tinkering.
You can buy a direct replacement for about £7.5 or if you’re a real cheapskate like me you can buy a cell-phone or camera battery which are cheaper.
I haven’t tried this one yet, but it appears that the following batteries have very similar dimensions and should fit within the casing.
The only downfall is that you will have to cut the cable off the original battery and solder it on the new battery contacts. Shouldn’t be that difficult. Just make sure that you keep the soldering process short as batteries tend to explode on your face if you overheat them with a soldering iron. And they overheat fast.
I’ll first let the battery die completely and then I’ll buy a new one, so I’ll let you know how that goes.
Have you seen the new craze?
Basically you slam together a button-battery (cr2032) and a bright LED, and tape them around with electric tape. If you want you can tape together a neodymium magnet as well and throw it on a lamp post or anything metal. Hence the name.
I thought I would copy the meme but instead of the magnets I used blue-tack to glue them on the balcony wall to serve as Christmas decorations.
It worked pretty well. Here are the results.
While waiting for my arduino to arrive, I’m accumulating various junk useful parts for my future projects.
When it comes to arduino projects, one thing you can’t have enough are motors and servos. And LEDs. Definitely LEDs.
If you have a busted DVD or CD drive, you can sacrifice it to get at least 2 motors. And there’s more free goodies inside!
Inside my busted old NEC DVD-RW I found the following:
- 4x screw dampeners
- 1x two-way switch (on-off-on) Good as a forward-reverse stick
- 4x Lenses. The two circular can be used as a macro lens for cell phone cameras
- 1x Right-angled tact switch
- 1x Disk-type Rheostat (These are rare)
- 1x 3.5mm jack
- 2x headers
- 2x Laser diodes. Good for DIY burning laser devices
- 1x right-angled Green LED with housing
- 1x DC motor
- 1x Stepper motor (Sweet)
- Enough gears to make your own robotic gripper
On top of these parts, there should be 2x strong magnets, -I must have thrown them away by mistake- and a third high-RPM motor that spins the disk. I couldn’t salvage it as it was soldered on a PCB and looked complicated, but maybe someone else can use it somewhere.
Bored on a Satuday morning, I contemplated on what use I could get out of some spare parts I’ve got.
My latest salvaged item was the RF-370CA-15370 motor that I pulled apart from a working VCR. It looked powerful and I was itching to use it on some project.
I tried it with 5V at first, and it buzzed happily! I then connected it’s rotating axle with an off-center crown to test it’s vibrating capabilities… Yup. Perfect. With a 9V battery I couldn’t even hold it still. That much vibration.
Hmm… time to build a cheap as chips vibrating body massager thingy.
We already had a manual roller body massager. Good for back aches. Bought it a while ago from Jumbo, costs just 1.5 euros.
I couldn’t bother taking my dremel out, so I warmed-up a screw with a lighter and melted away the plastic. I then finished it up with an exacto knife.
I soldered the cables to the switch
The motor with the slightly off-center bit and the 9V battery. I used hot-glue to fix them inside the massager.
That was it. The finished product looks the same externally (minus the switch)
It works very well as a back massager. Don’t get any naughty ideas.
For 1.5 euros + 2.40 euros for the battery, it can rival easily some commercial models.
I’ve always wanted to build my own custom PC case.
Ever since I randomly stumbled upon the mini-itx.com website I got hooked. I saw all of the mods that other people submitted over the years and I wanted to build my own. I specially liked the army themed ones such as the Ammo Box and the AmmoLAN. I had an ammo box lying around that I used to house all of my audio cds. It was about time it got a new purpose.
The new system would act as a Home Theater PC (HTPC) and keep company to my new 32″ Full HD TV. For that it would have to be powerful enough to play Blue-ray and some video games. I read some positive reviews on the new Zotac ION ITX-A, plus it has an external brick-type UPS for space economy and less heat.
Zotac Ion ITX-A ————————–>175 euros (Delivery costs included)
Sony AD-7670S Slim DVD —————>46 euros
Seagate Barracuda 320GB —————->39 euros
Kingston PC6400 800Mhz 2GB ———->27 euros
Trust Wireless Keyboard & Mouse –>27 euros
TOTAL 314 EUROS
Bits & Pieces
2x light bulbs ————————> 2 euros
Valdal-proof Switch —————->7.40 euros
Key-switch ————————-> 4 euros
2x Flip toggle switches ————-> 2 euros
Tiny reset switch ——————->0.60 euros
Cables —————————–>0.15 euros
2x 40mm Fan Guards ————->1.2 euros
80mm Fan Guard —————–>2 euros
4x M3 Stand-offs —————–>1 euro
mini-sata to sata cable ————->5 euros
HDMI v3 Gold cable ————–>7 euros
TOTAL 32.2 EUROS
Solder Iron ——————>8 euros
Solder Flux ——————>1.6 euros
Hot Glue Gun —————>3.50 euros
Masking Tape—————>1 euro
Dremel-Type Rotary tool —>30 euros
Set of Dremel bits ———-> 7 euros
TOTAL 51.1 EUROS
I started by measuring the mobo and the ammo case. It seems it could fit. the height of the mobo matches exactly the height of the box. 17cm. It’s gonna be a close fit. I made a paper mock-ups to arrange all the parts inside the box and figure out where to put each part.
Next step was to plug everything, cross my fingers and hope that everything works out of the box. A very critical step to the overall success.
On the side it’s marked: “Fuze PD M557 Boostered” and on the top: “Explosives Class C” a little bit of googling revealed that it’s purpose was to store fuses for 105mm artillery rounds.
In the past, (Before 9-11) I had a lot of fun at airports with this thing as carry-on baggage. The stares I would get from security staff…
Now lets get that dremel working. For the ports on the back, I didn’t want to use the I/O shield that most of mods use because it would look too much like a PC. I just cut enough steel for the ports to slip through.
The I/O shield came handy to mark the spot for cutting.
I started off by cutting the front handle. It was the first time I was handling a dremel tool so I needed the practice. The front handle was totally useless and it was making a clinking noise when moving the case around, plus I needed the space, so it had to go.
The carbon cutting disk cut it like butter.
Largo from Megatokyo webcomic says that you have to hack naked so who am I to defy him?
I also own (or should I say p0wN) this awesome t-shirt
Here are the first holes my dremel skillz are improving really slowly.
Now for some soldering skills. Again, It’s my first time with a soldering iron. I needed to wire fans, Switches, and status leds. Starting from the fans, the system is ment for my bedroom so it has to be extra silent. It will also be permanently on, so good air flow is a must too. At first I thought of putting 40mm fans. 2 on the back and 2 on the lid.
The disadvantage of 40mm fans over bigger ones is that they produce more noise, so instead of 2 + 2, I used one 80mm on the back, blowing air in, and two 40mm on the top, blowing hot air out.
I don’t have a multimeter so a peek under the label reveals the polarity. (At the time I didn’t think about cables color coding)
So as you probably suspected, the red wire is the positive, and the black is negative or ground. The blue one is the RPM sensor that I don’t need it at the moment, so off it goes. All 3 fans are 12v and they have the small 3 pin connector. The one that connects to the motherboard so that the system controls the RPMs. Off with those too. Now… where to solder them? The sata power molex is basically the same as the standard molex. yellow is +12V, red is +5V, and the 2 black cables are ground.
At first I connected all of the fans in series, but that didn’t work very well as the voltage was reduced with each device I added. Makes sense to those who actually paid attention in physics class.
So I de-soldered everything and connected them in parallel.
I then wired 2 flip-switches to kill the power to the inbound or outbound airflow individually.
Everyday I could only cut for 4 hours from 5pm to 9pm so I wouldn’t annoy the neighbors with all the noise. Add to that the much needed planning time, and it took me weeks to cut and sand everything.
Next stage was to cut 3 blow holes. I started with the 80mm one on the back.
The hole saws were too expensive so I had to do it with the dremel.
I masked the area with masking tape to protect it from random “oops” slip-offs. (I learn from my mistakes)
Next was the lid 40mm holes. That was a royal pain in the 4$$ ! ! !
The steel on the lid was double! I don’t mean just thicker, it actually consists of 2 steel plates. That made it super tough to carve a proper smooth circle. I should have bought the hole saws after all.
The rubber molding covers perfectly the imperfections. I had to force the 2 metal plates together with a pair of pliers otherwise it wouldn’t fit.
Here you can see the HDD mounted on the side, the holes for status LEDs, flip switches, reset switch and the rubber molding DVD slot. The batteries are hot-glued to the bottom. I needed some way to line up the drive with the slot because of bad measuring. Also I had to place the DVD-drive upside-down because its right side corner would touch the motherboard. Amazingly it works even upside-down.
Everything plugged-in. The motherboard upper side sits just on the edge of the box. They have the exact same height of 17cm. It was a gamble but it fits. I tried to manage the cable-spaghetti a bit to get better airflow and that’s the best I could do. It’s breezy in there.
That was the point where I got so excited with the project that I forgot to take pictures of the process.
When I trie dto close the lid I realized that the lid hits the motherboard screws and stops it from closing. I remedied it with a little bit dremeling.
I wanted to mount the mobo, HDD, DVD and fans with M3 screws so I cut them to appropriate lengths. I later found out that M3 doesn’t work with internal components. It’s a good thing I had a bunch of spare screws from random PCs. I used the M3 screws and M3 nylon nuts to mount the fans. It was very had to keep the nut in place while screwing. (This doesn’t sound right…)
I added a key switch. I order to power-on the PC, you have to turn the key to on, and then push the start switch. The key disables the power switch by opening the circuit. I wanted to imitate the 2 key-safety feature of nuclear weapons. If the key-switch is off, you can’t power-off the system either.
Fron view. In that hole you can see the reset switch. I put it there to avoid accidental resets. On the left we got the fan flip-switches, and on the right the HDD activity status and power-on status. I used 3v light bulbs instead of LEDs to give a more old-school look. When inserting a disk you have to remember to put it upside-down
I wanted to mount a regular sized DVD drive vertically, but unfortunately it didn’t fit, and it wouldn’t look good anyway with a tray protruding even with the bezel removed. So I opted for the much more expensive slimline slot drive. I was hoping to cut a thin line on the front of the case to eject the DVDs and stealth the drive behind it. Turns out dremel tools aren’t that precise. At least not in my hands. The line ended up being quite thick so I had to resolve to rubber molding around the edges to make the slot appear thinner, and protect DVDs from getting scratched.
And finally the finished product
I also added XBMC to enhance the home theater experience. Works like a charm.
Why it’s a bad idea to cut steel on the balcony:
All the metal trimings that graciously lie on the balcony floor, once they get wet from the rain, they start to rust. And boy do they rust FAST. I got rust everywhere on the floor and the GF went mental so I had to scrub and scrub with acid solution.
Next time I’ll do it in the basement and vacuum the place real good.
Feel free to leave comments negative or positive, or suggestions.